Greece - Part II - Athens & Aegina
A metropolis subtle with its charm, Athens effortlessly blends layers of history from antiquity to modernity.
Athens
When I asked around for travel tips, no one seemed to have taken an interest in spending time in Athens other than a stopover for the Acropolis before the islands. Even my Athenian friend was (pleasantly) surprised to hear that I spent almost a week in the city. Naturally, as a city person and architecture nerd, I thought it might be worthwhile to give it at least two days before deciding if I should stay or skip. Admittedly, although the city was not charming at first sight, I’m so glad to have been afforded the patience to get a soft feel of this seemingly chaotic metropolis.
Neighborhoods to stay
Exarcheia: where I stayed for my first two nights. It’s young, rebellious, somewhere between hip and hippie. The streets are lined with bookshops, cafes, bars, and occasional rough-looking facades. Some say it’s a bit dicey but I never felt any sense of danger, even late into the night. Walking around Exarcheia will make you feel like you’re in Berlin or Bushwick.
Kolonaki: the posh (but slightly boring) cousin of Exarcheia at the foot of Lycabettus Hill. Walking from Exarcheia to Kolonaki, you could sense the crowds changing — more grown-up, well-groomed, and calm. The streets, buildings, and shops are much cleaner and more polished.
Pangrati: where I stayed after Exarcheia. just south of the lovely Athens National Garden and centered by Varnava Square. Pangrati used to be a sleepy middle-class neighborhood that has gotten more attention in recent years, especially hip, upscale restaurants. It’s just far enough from the bustling city center for peace and quiet but still has the right amount of liveliness.
Koukaki: the calm, residential side of the Acropolis with a lot of local feels. Walking around the streets of Koukaki, you’ll find not only cool boutiques and cozy bistros but also local Athenians going about their day-to-day lives.
Plaka & Monastiraki: the central historical neighborhoods at the foot of the Acropolis. The old, narrow pedestrian streets are action-packed with tourists and amenities. The location is convenient but could be very rowdy. Not my first choice but fit for a quick layover to see the ancient ruins.
Despite the narrow (and often hilly) pedestrian lanes and ruleless drivers, the city is quite walkable, with everything at a manageable distance. Even though I felt like I was wandering around the same few neighborhoods over the week, simply picking a different street to go up or down offered me endless joy of discovery. The flaneur spirit in me is in love with Athens.
Regardless of where you end up staying, here are some recommendations for how I’d spend a lovely day in Athens:
Mornings
If you’re also a blessed morning person, start your day before the city and tourists wake up. Take a casual stroll through Plaka and Monastiraki and walk up the alleys to the Ancient Agora of Athens and the Acropolis for a few quiet hours with the antiquity ruins. Areopagus Hill is a great overlook spot where many would get a scenic shot with the Acropolis and the city in the background.
If you’re also a lover of markets, on your way to the Acropolis, walk through Varvakios Central Municipal Market to see the butchers and fishmongers in action, and stop by MOKKA SPECIALTY COFFEE S.A. for a morning coffee and pastry. If you drop by during the day, you can also grab lunch at the local joint Oinomageireio Epirus for some no-frill traditional Greek dishes.
Once you circle down the Acropolis, head to ERGON House Athens for a late breakfast or lunch. It’s like a Greek Eataly — with a restaurant, a cafe, and markets under the same roof, serving up simple but delicious dishes with fresh produce sourced from local farmers. They also have a few lovely rooms upstairs, which come with anything that catches your eye in their breakfast menu downstairs. Afterward, if you have room for dessert, head to Le Greche for the best gelato in Athens, especially their heavenly pistachio.
Alternatively, you can find amazing seafood dishes at the tucked-away To Triantafyllo tis Nostimias, or grab-and-go snacks such as traditional cheese pies at ΑΡΙΣΤΟΝ ΛΟΜΠΟΤΕΣΗ and gyros at Kostas, even a drink at Brettos bar.
Afternoons
To walk off the meal, wander around the narrow lanes of Plaka and entertain some light shopping. Two local jewelry boutiques I enjoyed are ANMA Jewellery and A. Leondarakis - Design Jewellery. If you’re feeling adventurous, walk west towards Koukaki. Amongst the parallel streets, Dimitrakopoulou and Veikou are the two livelier ones with more shops and cafes. I dropped in local jewelers Moloko Plus and Odds & Ends and kept on walking to the western edge of the neighborhood. There are a few cafes that are perfect stops for an afternoon refresher or drink, where you could sit outside with the local cool kids, such as Bel Ray or BOBO winebar (for easing into the evening).
Alternatively, instead of Koukaki, you could wander off to Athens National Garden for its lovely green-filled walking paths, fresh air, and bird and turtle ponds (as well as a mini zoo). I spent a few lovely mornings in the garden.
Benaki Museum is also another wonderful choice to spend a lazy afternoon or rainy day, where you could spend 2-3 hours enjoying Benaki family’s art collections in their former mansion. They also have a terrace cafe with a beautiful view of the garden. National Archaeological Museum also came highly recommended to me, which I imagine would be another wonderful way to spend an afternoon.
For sunset, walk up Lycabettus Hill (or take the funicular) and catch the golden hour with a 360 view of the city, mountains, and the sea. Another great option is Philopappos Hill, where you get an excellent view of the Acropolis.
Evenings
If you want to stay in Plaka, find a bar or cafe Agias Irinis square where you get to blend in with the trendy Athenians. Cherchez La Femme Σερσέ λα Φαμ by the Mitropoleos square is also a great stop for a glass of wine before heading into the night.
If you want to pivot away from the tourists, start with an aperitif while people-watching at Da Capo. If you feel like staying in the nice Kolonaki neighborhood, enjoy a seafood dinner at Barbounaki and make sure to get their famous fried red mullets. Alternatively, you can walk up to Exarcheia, where there are many old-school taverns and hip eateries to choose from, such as smoke meat-focused Fine Mess Smokehouse, falafel specialty Ap’alloú, Cretan restaurant Oxo Nou, traditional Ouzeri Lesvos, and amazing gyro and souvlaki at Agrafa.
After dinner, take a walk around Exarcheia towards the east and maybe stop by for a drink if any bar catches your eye, perhaps the bustling Warehouse and Tanini Agapi Mouor, the cozy Caracas cafe bar and Selas, or the more hipster-vibe Bayard Café Bar.
On the main street Ippokratous, there are also bookshops and record stores that open late into the night. I stopped by to browse vintage art books at a stand outside and ended up hanging out with the eclectic owner and his friends till 1 AM.
Blessed by the mild climate, Athenians live the best al fresco life at every street corner, especially those of pedestrian alleys.
It’s hard to be disappointed no matter where you eat in Greece, and there’s so much elegance from simplicity. However, if you’re interested in fine dining, there are also a few Michelin restaurants in Athens that are worth checking out. I went for tasting menus + wine pairing at Soil restaurant (one-star, more upscale and intimate setting in a townhouse) and Merceri food & drink (more casual and communal), and both were lovely experiences, featuring creative takes on the best Greek produce (and generously pours of delicious Greek wine).
Sidenotes
The former gas plant Technopolis City of Athens now hosts events and arts and culture exhibitions day and night. Worth checking out their calendar while you’re in Athens.
If I find myself in Athens again during summer, I’ll make sure to drop by the outdoor cinemas, such as EKPAN summer cinema, Thision Open Air Cinema, Cinema Riviera, and Cine Aegli Summer Cinema.
Gennadius Library for the book lovers.
Head to Gazi area for dancing/nightlife.
ΑΤΤΙΚΑ is Athen’s main, upscale department store in the city center.
A few interesting-looking restaurants I didn’t get to but have saved include:
Annie - Fine Cooking for an elevated menu in a cozy neighborhood bistro
Simul for tasting menu
Atlantikos for seafood tavern vibes
Grande Dame Athenian Tavern for traditional dishes with modern twists
Oinoscent for wine tasting
GH Attikos Restaurant for terrace dining with an unreal view of the Acropolis
Hotels I would consider trying next time:
Aegina
I spent a lovely, leisurely day in Aegina, which is only a 30-minute ferry ride away from the Piraeus port, which is the main hub for all water transit from Athens to the Greek islands. Winter is off-season for Greece so islands could be tricky given most business will be closed. Personally, I quite enjoyed the calmness of the islands in winter where the Aegean Sea is also mostly quiet.
Aegina on a sunny winter day, the hours are stretched and time flows at a slower pace. The locals sit around in the sun, enjoying chats over coffee or wine. The main attractions on the island are Temple of Aphaia (via bus or car) and Temple of Apollo, which is walking distance from the pier.
Pistachios from Aegina are seriously fresh and delicious. I bought pistachios, sweets, and paste made from them at the family-run Mourtzis Pistachio and Traditional Sweets where they let me taste everything. For lunch or dinner, simply pick a restaurant along the water and enjoy a long, tipsy meal the Greek way.
