Greece - Part I - Crete - Chania & Rethymno
So much life and flavors spilled over onto the streets, so many shades of blue from the blessings of the Aegean Sea - living a rich life full of abundance in Crete.
Mediterranean winter, a light jacket, old streets, sunny strolls, and slow evenings into the late nights. So much light, and so much life.
My memories of Greece are fragmented, possibly due to my busy two weeks jumping around between cities, islands, and mountains, opening up to such different worlds of color palettes, smells, and pace of life.
One day it was waking up to Acropolis bathing in sunrise, walking up and down the narrow streets lined with bitter orange trees, and vibrating energies spilling over from the bustling restaurants and bars at every dimly lit corner. With a ferry ride away, the next day was sitting al fresco at the tavern by the port, sipping crisp white wine in the sun, watching the glistening Aegean Sea half tipsy, passing time with ease. A couple hours’ drive into the mountains, large patches of greens and scattered villages on the hills would magically appear after sharp turns of windy roads, and the breathtaking sunrise and sunset hues in the valleys evoke grand romance at heart.
There are small lovely things that loosely thread these snapshots of memories together - the wandering stray cats, the perfectly ripe tomatoes coated in olive oil, the ouzo shots after every meal, and the mix-match of architectural styles from antiquity to various empires that have left their marks.
As always, I planned my trip as I went, landing in Athens with only two nights booked. The itinerary gradually unfolded as I traveled. During my two weeks in Greece, I spent six days in Athens, including a day trip to Aegina via ferry, followed by four days in Crete via overnight cruise, a two-day road trip into the mountains north of Athens (Kalambaka & Meteora), and wrapped up by two slow island days in Mykonos.
Crete
Crete is one of those places of abundance and richness — harbors and lighthouses, life tucked away in the alleyways, architecture layered with transitioning empires, fresh produce on every plate, and scenic drives along the sea and into the mountains. Looking back, memories from Crete — the colors, flavors, and even smell of the air — seem so magical that they almost feel unreal. From Minoan to Mycenaean, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman, the past blends elegantly into the biggest and most populous island in Greece. Various Greek friends told me that Crete, apart from its distinctive culture and accents, also offers the best food and produce.
I only spent four days in Crete based in Chania, but I could easily see myself lingering for much much longer, perhaps a summer in Rethymno renting a Venetian house on a quiet street where I could walk to the sea. Apart from the leisurely walks in the Venetian towns, there are also amazing drives into the mountains and beaches in more remote parts of the island. Although Heraklion is the main city in Crete where most of the cruises arrive, Chania and Rethymno are much more charming options to stay and experience the island. Below are mostly from my leisurely days based in Chania.
Mornings
An early morning walk around the harbor and lighthouse before the town wakes up. Get specialty coffee at Monogram or KROSS COFFEE ROASTERS and pick up some freshly baked heavenly bites at Bakery Shop, especially the Cretan sweet cheese pastry (kalitsounia) and specialty cookies. Enjoy them while people watch at the plaza in front of Church of Agios Nikolaos. Try PALLAS for a sit-down breakfast right by the water in the heart of the old port.
If you feel like a short morning drive, you can also head east to Carte Postale with an amazing view of the town on the hilltop.
Walk around the town and stop by the shops in the old town for leather goods and souvenirs. There are a few local jewelers with authentic designs. I especially liked the nature-inspired pieces at Sifis Ntaliani.
On Saturday, you can pick up fresh fruits, cheese, olives, and herbs at Open Bazaar, plus nice souvlaki stands.
Afternoons
Enjoy a slow sunny afternoon sitting outside of Chania Sailing Club - Neorio Moro, perhaps after a late lunch at Kouzina EPE where they serve traditional Cretan home cooking with daily specials made fresh in the open kitchen. The bookstore around the corner Το μικρό καράβι has a good selection of English books and postcards, where I found The Greeks by Roderick Beaton, a book on Greek history that I’ve enjoying since.
You can take the scenic drive along the sea to Rethymno, which is another beautiful Venetian port city similar to Chania that is a little over an hour to the east. Walk around town, see Neratze Mosque, and catch the sunset along the Venetian Fortezza Castle. Prima Plora Οrganic Restaurant & Wine Bar outside of town has a stunning setup right on the water, perfect for a romantic dinner.
Further east, Heraklion is two and a half hour’s drive from Chania but I was told to skip. I did drive to Knossos Palace to see the restored Minoan ruins. On the way, I passed by Arkadi Monastery, which looks worthwhile for a visit as well.
Do a full or half-day trip down to Elafonissi Beach at the southern tip of the island, and stop by Chrysoskalitissa Monastery and Gonia Odigitria Monastery on the way. The mountain roads will cut through local villages but get very narrow and windy at times, not the easiest drive.
Evenings
Seafood dinner at To Maridaki, where they serve freshly caught fish with straightforward cooking and simple flavors that highlight the ingredients. There are also great fish taverns around Nea Hora Marina west of the town, such as KAIKI and Achilleas Fish Restaurant.
For more traditional Cretan cuisine, head to Oinopiio, where the grilled veggies on flatbread and cheese-filled flatbread with honey were the highlights. For meat lovers, try Throumbi.
If you want to linger around the old port for a dinner with the sea view, try Τα Χάλκινα for traditional Cretan cuisine or the newer canale restaurant.
Later into the night, head to the garden at Bohème right off a busy street for cocktails or Fagotto Jazz Bar Chania tucked away in the alley. Alternatively, EMPRIME is a small bar on a nice street corner that’s crowded.
To end the night, do another loop around the old port and lighthouse for gorgeous night views of the sea.
Hikes
Samaria Gorge (seasonal)